About three miles downstream from Old Quebec, a long stout island
plugs the St. Lawrence River, separating it into two channels. Though it's easy to
spot from the Dufferin Terrace in front of Chateau Frontenac in Quebec City, the island was
accessible only by boat until 1935, and even today it retains a largely rural
character. A few villages are scattered around the island's periphery, but as
far as I could tell the central mass is given over entirely to growing fruit and
vegetables.
We thought it might be fun to visit the place, and in order
to insure that we took the time to soak up the atmosphere rather than merely
touring the perimeter highway and rushing off, we booked a room on the island at an inn called
Les Ancêtres Auberge overlooking the bridge and the channel.
Hilary had spotted it on a website on one of our
evening planning sessions, during which we sit in different rooms, me at the
desktop, she with her iPad, staring at Travelocity, TripAdvisor, and other
sites.
"Check this out," She called out the name and I found the
listing:
"In front of the Montmorency Falls, at the entrance to
the Île d'Orléans, a rural inn and restaurant situated at 15 minutes from Old
Quebec. Enjoy attractive sunsets on the panoramic terrace, under the glass roof
or in the privacy of the tercentenary house. Discover the chic and rustic Les
Ancêtres Auberge. In an enchanting decor, be
delighted by an inspiring fine local cuisine or a traditional cuisine. A
comfortable and intimate inn where tradition live side by side with innovation.
A charming conviviality in a natural setting. Welcome! "
The rooms looked big, the stone walls looked plenty rustic, and
the price wasn't too far out of line, especially considering we'd probably be spending the previous night camping out.
"Shall we do this?" Five or six weeks before departure and
fifteen hundred miles inland, we were
about to commit ourselves. Then I noticed the auberge also offered a
"traditional French-Canadian dinner" for $26.
Once again. "Shall we do
this?" In a flush of
giddy pre-travel excitement, we decided to add the meal to the tab, using as an
excuse the fact that we'd be arriving on the evening before our thirty-ninth
anniversary.
A month and a half later, we found ourselves on a good-sized
suspension bridge crossing the St. Lawrence River to a large, long, rounded
island. We took a right turn at the first traffic light and three minutes later
we arrived at the inn. Having studied it so carefully on the website, I almost
felt like we'd been there before.
We stopped in the long gravel driveway, which sloped gently
down to the inn, the restaurant, and the barn, and I got out to take a picture
in the pleasant mid-afternoon sun. It was far too early to check in, and we
still had a lot of exploring to do, so we immediately returned to the highway
and continued our circumnavigation without bothering to knock.
A half-mile on, we pulled into a winery overlooking the
river, but agreed that sampling wine after a longish driving day would probably
just wear us out. Once again we pulled a Louie in the white gravel parking lot
and continued on our way. (The phrase "pull a Louie," by the way,
means to do an abrupt U-turn and depart rapidly, hoping no one has seen you
arrive. At least, that's what it meant in Mahtomedi in 1968. Now I'm wondering
if the expression has a French derivation on the order of "taking French
leave.")
As we approached the southwestern tip of the island we
entered the village of Sainte-Pétronille. The road grew narrower, the dwellings
closer together, the trees thicker, and as we passed one short street leading
down to the waterfront Hilary caught sight of the sign and said, "That's
the street I read about. We should pull down there."
Too late.
Immediately thereafter we saw a shady parking lot on the
inland side of the street. It look idyllic, but it seemed obvious to me (on the
basis of no prior knowledge or current evidence) that it was a private lot reserved for tour
buses and people buying ice cream cones at the nearby gift shop. The truth of
the matter was that it looked touristy to me and I didn't want to stop there,
just when we were about the traverse the length and breadth of the lovely Ile
d' Orleans.
"Well, we've got to stop somewhere," Hilary observed, a little heatedly. "Besides,
I want an ice cream cone." A hundred yards of silence down the street I
saw a sign indicating public parking and turned.
We were experiencing a late-afternoon meltdown—our first of
the trip.
A quarter-mile up the hill we came to an empty church
parking lot and pulled in. We cooled off during the long, shady walk down the
hill. The houses were large, white, and well-spaced, with low rock walls
marking many of the property boundaries. We passed a woman walking a dog who
smiled and said "bonjour," as did we in reply. She probably wondered
why we were parking way up on the hill.
It was a genteel exurban space, with little paths running
off into the woods that local children probably used to reach their tree
houses. It reminded me somewhat of Old Frontenac, Minnesota, though at the time
it never occurred to me that the association was more than superficial. Yet Old
Frontenac was established in the 1850s, and several of its earliest buildings
are French in design, due to the fact that the people who built them as summer
homes and hunting lodges came from Cincinnati and were familiar with the French
riverside architecture along the Ohio and Upper Mississippi rivers—the Creole
Corridor.
The French had established a fort at Old Frontenac as early
as 1727—it was called Fort Beauharnois, in honor of the then-governor of New
France, Charles de la Boische, Marquis de Beauharnois. That may seem sort of
irrelevant, and I guess it is when you're standing at the site of the fort,
which is now a muddy hill in the woods beside a nunnery overlooking a very
distant Mississippi River. But when you're standing in New France, now called
Quebec Province, it's fascinating to conjure those men who took the St.
Lawrence upstream to the Great Lakes, thence to Green Bay, then up the Fox
River to the Wisconsin, down the Wisconsin to the Mississippi, then up that
wide river through a labyrinth of channels to Lake Pepin, just to build a
crummy fort to trade for beaver pelts!
I wasn't thinking about that as we strolled down the lane to
the St. Lawrence ... but I'm thinking about it now.
At the time I was thinking about the thick clump of Cimicifuga racemosa (bugbane or black
cohosh) we passed on our way down the hill. It was growing under a set of windows
in a private home, and it was much more robust than our little clump back home,
even though ours had made great strides during the summer.
Though entirely haphazard, this was the perfect way to enter
the village of Sainte-Pétronille—down hill, on foot, in the quiet of the late
afternoon sun. We had been in the car for much of the day, and it was a
pleasure to stretch our legs.
We eventually arrived at the waterfront, then strolled down
the dead-end street we'd missed before. We stood on the sidewalk near shore,
and watched an ocean-going freighter heading upstream in the sun-flecked river toward Quebec City, which dominated the
distant skyline to the west .The vessel looked like an ore boat to me, but it
was probably carrying some other bulk commodity.
We walked past the home, half-hidden by shrubbery, of a
famous Canadian painter Hilary had read about in a guidebook—previously unknown
to us and now once again lost to memory. Then we returned to the shady
parking lot near the ice cream parlor, which turned out to be public parking
after all.
Hilary finally got her ice cream cone. (I continued to
insist that I didn't want one.) A bus had just arrived, and a line soon formed
extending quite a ways out the door of the ice cream parlor. We sat in the
little park for a while, observing the other tourists. Then we hiked back down
the coast road, up the wooden lane back to the car, and continued on our way.
Though local residents would probably disagree, to me the
island remains charmingly underdeveloped. The tourist office has created an
interactive
map of the island that you can customize by interest,
and just now I counted more than forty sites devoted to food alone: bakeries, chocolate
shops, pick-your-own fruits and berries, cheese-makers, cider houses,
restaurants, and sugar-shacks. However, most of these establishments are
located in simple rural buildings retrofitted for the task at hand, and as you
drive along the narrow highway the countryside looks both agricultural and pristine.
The road runs for long stretches along the top of a gentle
ridge, with fields on either side and the majestic river far below, but it
is narrow, and there are no shoulders in
many places, which makes it difficult to pull over and enjoy the view. The
island was originally plotted in the seigniorial style, with long strips of
land running from the ridge down to the river, but such a scheme wasn't
apparent to me. Some of the distant stone farmhouses were built of stone; they
looked old and "classically" French-Canadian, with gables,
steeply-pitched roofs, and narrow eaves. Others didn't.
We finally pulled off the road as we neared the northeast
end of the island in the parking lot of a church— l'église Saint-Jean. A couple
of classy antique homes stood just across the road, though I was more interested in
looking across the river toward another cluster of islands just downstream —Île
Madame and Grosse Île, I think.
We arrived back at the auberge late in the day. As we
entered the shadowy building we were greeted by a young man
who strode in energetically from the back kitchen. He was wearing a vest, and he looked like an Irish
bartender to me. I liked him immediately.
"You must be the Torens. Yes? We've got you in the Rose-Anna
and Omer Room, it's just above us. I see you've signed up for the traditional Quebecois meal?
You'll enjoy it. In fact, I'll be your waiter tonight. Here are the keys to the
room. Let me know if you need anything. You'll find me back in the
kitchen."
We settled in to the first private interior space we'd had in forty-eight hours with relish, exploring the chairs, the bed, the view out the window, the faucets in the bathroom.
Soon enough we'd be heading downstairs for our evening meal.