Thursday, January 20, 2022

Return of the Art Shanty Village

If you're suffering from the winter blahs, a trip to the Ice Shanty Village out on Lake Harriet might be just the thing. It's free (though donation buckets are widespread) and it's pretty safe, considering visitors are allowed into the shanties only one at a time. There's a food truck or two parked near the bandstand on shore. And once you're out on the lake you can wander through an assortment of "themed" structures most of which can be fully experienced from the outside.

I have to admit that I didn't read most of the printed signs describing what individual structures were supposed to be exhibiting. The whimsy was obvious and striking; I wasn't in the mood to think too hard about ecology or fake medical cures, and I didn't want to wait in line to go through one of the shacks. There were plenty of little kids already waiting. Nor did I try my hand at the magnetic poetry board, or snag a scarf or hat at the Ice Shanty "digger" store, where such things were hanging on clothes-lines, on offer for free.

During the time we were there, hardly more than a hour, we saw a tremendous ice-dancing performance, and a group called An Opera Theatre gave wonderful renditions of arias by Handel and Puccini to the accompaniment of accordion, melodica, and guitar.

I especially liked the tenor aria, Ché gelida manina. The breezy, romantic tune has been coming and going in the back of my mind ever since, though I only discovered how appropriate it was this morning, when a friend identified it for me and translated the title: "How cold is this little hand." 

You can hear the windy sample I recorded here.

One of the displays consisted of a fake tree with a hanging bird-feeder. A few gigantic paper mache birds on poles were lying around with which you could attempt to extract potato-sized sunflower seeds from the hanging net bags. Sound like fun? 

Our most engaging conversation took place at a less than spectacular display largely consisting of knee-high gondolas stuffed with dried grasses. The young man in charge told us he was a graduate of MCAD who specialized in environmental sculptures made of mud and sticks. Somewhere along the way it occurred to him that creating gardens with live plants would be more fun, and might also be a way to make a living.

I was listening to him as he spoke, but I was also slowly identifying dead plants in his display, one after another: baby bluestem, milkweed, bee balm, common goldenrod.

You can see the prairie plant display in the middle distance

"Do you have any Joe Pie weed?" I asked.

"Not here today, though it's one of my favorites."

"We're birders, and we spend quite a bit of time out in the prairie. That's why we know a few of these plants."

"My girlfriend is a birder," he said. "We were up at a place called Sax-Zim Bog the other day. We saw a few things, but no owls. It's an enchanting landscape. Have you been there?"

"Many times," I said. "We were there two weeks ago. We saw redpolls, pine grosbeaks. But I've yet to see a boreal chickadee."

"We did see one of those, right out behind the visitors' center."

'Oww," I said, "That must have been a thrill. Just this morning we saw a bird neither of us had ever seen before. A black duck. It typically hangs around with mallards, and looks like a very dark female mallard. I've spent thirty years looking at female mallards, saying, "Well, that one looks a little darker. Maybe it's a black duck ....But this morning, it was like WOW. That's a very dark mallard."

Our black duck

"Same with the boreal chickadee," he said. "We kept seeing chickadees and hoping they had those little differences. The auburn streak on the flank. And then we saw the real thing and it was obvious."

"Another thing I've noticed," he added. "The arts community is very supportive and all that, but ... there's also a lot of ego involved. Birders are a much more relaxed and congenial crowd."

Mostly true.

The waste-time machine

The weed display wasn't drawing much of a crowd—the plants weren't colorful and there was nothing much for the kids to do—but we enjoyed both the arrangements and the conversation. 

We continued our wander past the waste-time machine where you sat at a desk and described exactly how you wasted time. It's one of my favorite themes, though I thought it best not to waste other people's time buy writing an essay on the subject myself. We also passed a giant-sized kaleidoscope that you could go into and spin the dial, and a vaguely metallurgical shanty whose import escaped me entirely.  .  

I have no idea what this was all about

  It was a great way to get out on a balmy Saturday afternoon. And walking back to the car through Linden Hills was also a minor treat. There are lots of attractive old houses in that staid and trendy neighborhood. 

"I think Brenda Ueland lived somewhere around here..."

Monday, January 17, 2022

North Woods Elementary


 I recently fetched a book being held for me at the Golden Valley branch called Icarus Fallen: the Search for Meaning in an Uncertain World by the French intellectual Chantal Delsol. (It can be interesting to explore what our brothers and sisters in Europe are thinking about every once in a while.) In her opening salvo, however, Delsol sketches the mood of the times with an unusually broad brush: 

Western man at the beginning of the twenty-first century is the descendant of Icarus. He wonders into what world he has fallen. It is as if someone has thrown him into a game without giving him the rules. When he asks around for instructions, he is invariably told that they have been lost. He is amazed that everyone is content to live in a world without meaning and without identity, where no one seems to know either why he lives or why he dies.

I have gotten to know quite a few people in the United States and Europe over time, and I have yet to find even one who matches that description. Perhaps it's an academic disease?

Yes, Delsol is a philosophy professor at a university in suburban Paris. She is perhaps embarrassed to acknowledge that if a significant proportion of the Parisian population feels the way she describes, a half-century and more after Jean-Paul Sartre and others popularized ennui, the reason might be a simple one: the decline of metaphysics.

Metaphysics is the study of elemental things: the one and the many, the parts and the whole, being and non-being, identity and difference. In short, the whole ball of wax. The elements involved are simple, but the reasoning patterns, for precisely that reason, can be bizarre, and firm conclusions elusive.

I have never lost my enthusiasm for pondering the BIG questions. One of the best places to ponder them, I've found, is with Hilary, on the North Shore, under a starry sky, in the midst of the elements, with a carefully selected stack of books sitting on the floor by the fireplace.

 At the top of my stack during our recent New Year's trip were Chet Raymo's An Intimate Look at the Night Sky, the late Robert Bly's My Sentence Was a Thousand Years of Joy, and a book called Metaphysics and the Idea of God by a little-known German theologian named Wolfhart Pannenberg. 

I brought Raymo up for the star charts, but found the text, which I hadn't looked at closely for years, fit my mood, too. At one point, for example, he brings up the classic question of Olbers' Paradox: If the universe is infinite, why is the night sky dark rather than bright? Raymo seems to think that the Big Bang Theory, about which Olber knew nothing in 1897, clarifies everything." If the night sky is dark," Raymo argues, "it's because the universe is young."

That makes no sense at all. Most astrophysicists agree that the stars are shooting away from one another at unimaginable speed. If so, then I would imagine that as everything gets farther and farther apart, the universe will grow darker still. In fact, the Big bang Theory would seem to suggest that the universe is NOT infinite but finite, which would shoot a big hole in Olbers' Paradox from the get-go.

These aren't, perhaps, the kind of things you think about when you're standing in the dark under the starry firmament in deep winter, but they are the stuff of metaphysics. Perhaps we could take things a step further and suggest that the concept "infinity" is a human construct created by mathematicians and other speculative thinkers. They draw our attention to the limits of particular things—the hem of a skirt or the edge of a coffee table, for example—and then say, "Now imagine something that has no edges but goes on forever."

When we imagine such things, what we tend to see is deep dark outer space. There might be an edge out there, but probably not; and if there is, we'll never see it, even with the new Webb telescope. And if we do catch a glimpse of that edge, there's no telling if something lies beyond that edge or not.

In short, infinity is a fiction. But it's an alluring one that answers to something deep within our selves, and the night sky brings that connection to the surface. That may be why Plato reasoned that the stars are individual souls twinkling in perpetuity.

We stopped at Sax-Zim Bog on our way up to Castle Danger, ate a late lunch at the Wilbert Cafe in Cotton, and came into Duluth via Highway 53. We drove through the UMD campus on Skyline Parkway, missing a few turns along the way,  and caught several glimpses of Lake Superior far below us, with the pink-orange light of the setting sun sweeping across it, highlighting the patchwork pattern of open water, smooth and shiny, interspersed with the dull, rough stretches of floating ice and slush.

The stars were spectacular that first night. The brightest I've seen in years. No moon, no clouds, and little ambient light beyond a single yard-light well down the road. Above us Orion, Taurus, the Pleiades, Sirius, Capella, blazing in the midst of an intense blue-black screen. With the help of binoculars we also spotted the Beehive Cluster and Andromeda without difficulty.

We went out again the next morning. Still pitch black. It's interesting to see Leo directly overhead, and Cassiopeia upside down, an elongated M on the horizon to the northwest. The frigid air clarifies everything and makes the stars appear more intense. 

During the ten minutes we were out, I saw two shooting stars. It's the Quadrantid Meteor Shower! 

But on our second day the wind came up, the clouds rolled in, and the waves got fierce. Out came the books. Opening the Bly collection I came upon this gem:

Loafing with Friends at Ojo Caliente

Mineral pools remember a lot about history.

Here we are at Olo Caliente, sitting together,

soaking up the rumble of earth's forgetfulness.

   

Why should we worry if Anna Karenina ends badly?

The world is reborn each time a mouse

Puts her foot down on the dusty barn floor.

 

Sometimes ohs and ahs bring us joy. When

you place your life between the vowels, the music

Opens the doors to a hundred closed nights.

 

People say that even in the highest heaven

If you manage to keep your ears open

You would hear angels weeping, night and day.

 

The culture of the Etruscans has disappeared.

So many things are over. A thousand hopes

F. Scott Fitzgerald had for himself are gone.

 

No one is as lucky as those who live on earth.

Even the Pope finds himself longing for darkness.

The sun catches on fire in the lonely heavens.

 

This isn't metaphysics, but the juxtaposition of images may reach important zones of feeling in the same way that the stars do. The kind of feeling that almost seems to drift into a cosmic understanding, or comfort. 

Too often we read a poem hurriedly. We get to the end and say, "I liked that, though I don't know what it means," or "That was a dud." And move on. What are we looking for? How is it possible to dwell with a poem, line by line, collecting the vectors and the valences, as if to generate, from such data, a new vision of the universe?

You can spend hours reading a self-help book loaded with case histories, anecdotes, and sage words of advice. Or you can read:

—the speed of the soul leaping over fences

Brings the toe forward. At other times, a book resting

On my chest takes me backward into my mother's arms ...

 By now, the baked potatoes must be done, and the broccoli is stewing in its own dissipating steam.

______________

The next morning the air is warmer, but little else has changed:gray skies, high winds, big waves. It's still dark outside, though I can see the branches of the spruce tree bobbing up and down outside the window. 

"A theological doctrine of God that lacks metaphysics as its discussion partner falls into either a kerygmatic subjectivism or a thoroughgoing demythologization—and frequently both at the same time."

Good heavens. We wouldn't want that to happen. And a few pages later:

"I am skeptical of the claim that with the notion of highest perfection we have already reached the idea of God. The idea of God, however construed, has a considerably higher specificity ... [It] cannot be separated from the elements of personality (however we are to understand it) and of a will (whatever form it takes)."

I agree, though it all sounds a little vague. We're in the company of Wolfhart Pannenberg now, known to his friends as Wolfie. He seems to be on the right track and is careful not to let the rhetoric become too seriously detached from experience. And yet, he concludes one chapter:

"After all, it is for the sake of the task—the task of achieving a comprehensive interpretation of the finite world—that metaphysics attempts to rise above the multiplicity of the finite toward to idea of the One, a one that grounds the unity of the world and provides a unifying context for the multitude of things within the world."  

Unity? The One? We ought to be suspicious of such concepts. Is that what anyone really desires? Not at all. Unity is dull, oppressive, stultifying, and so all-absorbing as to squelch personal identity and critical judgment alike. What we're looking for in the midst of life's multiplicity isn't unity, but harmony, which is made up of nourishing interactions between things. Including, I suppose, the various parts of ourselves.

                                                   ______________

This afternoon we drove up to Tettegouche State Park and hiked in to the bridge across the Baptism River through spruce woods and aspen woods--a hike punctuated by a few meadow-like openings with impressive views of distant peaks. 

Back at the cabin, the waves continued to roll in, maybe ten feet high, never really forming a pattern, gray and dark, lumbering in, noisy and mesmerizing to watch from the windows. Here comes a good one. And look, that one fractured in the middle, and the previous wave, which showed great spread and promise thirty feet out from shore, has ended up being a dud.

We evaluate the waves like surfers, though almost every crash leads to dissatisfaction. There is no finality to it! When the wind dies down it will take two days for the energy gathered out on the lake to spend itself here on shore. Water foams or slithers away across the rocks just as a new crest approaches. The process is endless, and I suppose the incessant noise might put some people on edge, unlike the various clicks and hums resounding at random intervals from the baseboard heating here inside.  

A pine grosbeak sits in the snow under the window; he's reappeared several times, working his way through the shriveled berries in a mountain ash. Splashes of orange-red under the wings and on the rump, and a little touch of elegant green on the head, but mostly a lumpy gray—the avian equivalent of a manatee rather than a dolphin.

We take a walk down the road toward the highway with the roar of the wind at our backs. Darkness is closing in. We've heard coyotes howl along this road, but not tonight.

On the menu: spicy Thai chicken meatballs braised in coconut milk.

We make the meat balls together, brown them nicely in a beat-up frying pan. Now Hilary is at work at the kitchen counter, chopping the cilantro. Back on the couch, I open a book by Ortega y Gasset at random and read:

"Thoughts arise in the mind spontaneously, without will or deliberation on our part, and without producing any effect whatever on our behavior." 

Tuesday, January 11, 2022

Kirk Cousins and Me


 We use the phrase "the holidays" for that stretch of celebratory events with friends and family that often runs from Saint Lucy's Day (December 13) past the winter solstice, Christmas, New Years, and even, for some, as far as the Orthodox Christmas on January 7, with concerts, dinners, religious observances, maybe a bonfire or two.

And then the morning arrives when you realize it's all over and a fresh new year is staring you in the face. That's a good time to get a haircut. 

I drove out to one of the chains in Minnetonka—Great Clips, I think. Now that Fantastic Sam's has raised their rates, I've been shopping around. This particular storefront is sandwiched between a Caribou Coffee and a Wild Bird Store, with Trader Joe's right around the corner, so it has potential.  

The monitor said it would be a 23-minute wait, but I'd brought along something to read: Romanticism—a Very Short Introduction from Oxford University Press. I chose this book not because I was in a romantic mood, but because it's the smallest paperback I own: 4-1/4 by 6-3/4, and only 3/8 of an inch thick. It would be nice if they had a similar volume called German Romanticism, because that particular group—Lessing, the Schlegel brothers, Schelling, Schleiermacher, the Humboldt brothers, Novalis—is a tough nut to crack.

The wait wasn't all that long. After the stylist had set me down and draped the black sheet over my chest she said, "So, what have you got going today?"

"I was afraid you'd ask me that," I said.

She grumbled something about the Vikings on course to lose to the Bears, and I replied, "I'm not much of a football fan. I watch the highlights sometimes. I wouldn't recognize Curt Cousins if I passed him in the street."

Pause. "I also cut hair down in Eagan," she said. Another pause. "I cut Curt Cousins' hair. His name is Kirk." Really?

She informed me that he's a very nice guy, likes Minnesota, sends his kids to public schools, always gives her a $50 tip.

I was happy to hear it. "But Tom Brady isn't a nice guy," she continued. "Mahomes, now he's very nice."

"Well, he seems pretty nice on the Subway commercials," I said. I presume she doesn't cut Brady's hair, but heard all this from Cousins.

"Kirk  isn't sure how long he wants to keep playing," she said. "One thing money can't buy is your health."

"It's true. You're probably too young to remember Robert Smith," I said.

"What? I remember Tommy Mason, Fran Tarkenton."

"OK. I believe Smith retired in his prime and got a law degree."

"Back when the Vikings played at the Met, you could meet the players after the game," she said. "It's not like that now."

"I saw Joe Kapp play at the Met," I said. "We lost 33-3 to the Rams. In the snow. It wasn't much fun."

I was going to mention that I knew Tony Oliva's daughter, but thought better of it. I don't know her that well. Then again, how well does she know Mahomes?

Meanwhile, she was doing a careful job on my tangled gray mop. But she wasn't wearing a mask, and it suddenly occurred to me that Kirk Cousins isn't vaccinated. In fact, he had Covid just two weeks ago. Hmmm. I wonder when he got his last haircut?

I was going to ask my stylist if she was vaccinated, but what would be the point? If she said No, would I leap up, grab my coat, and head for the door? Not likely.

The Vikings ended up winning the game. When I got home I tuned in and saw a few minutes of the fourth quarter, which included two wild, open-field Viking interceptions that reminded me of my touch football days. The win was meaningless, of course. The Vikings are out of the playoffs. All well and good. Why prolong the agony? And the Australian Open is starting any day now. Spring is right around the corner.

Later that afternoon I was rummaging through a desk drawer and made two important discoveries. One was a sheet of paper containing the lyrics to a French-Canadian shoe-passing game called Sorry Sue, written out long-hand, that we used to play at Christmas time.

Savez vous passer la traderailera

Savey vous, passer, ceci sans vous trompez

But we sing it like this:

Sorry Sue passey suree suri, surroo

Sorry Sue, passey, suree suri surroo

The other was an envelope containing three photos. One was a snapshot of the author Jon Hassler on the deck of a sailboat, one was a photo of Norton Stillman, circa 1980, at a baseball game out at Met Stadium, and one was a picture of the Bookmen ad hoc touch football squad from (just a guess) the mid-1980s.

There's me, Mike, Chuck, Roy, Jim, Rod, and John. Mike became a cop, Chuck now runs a cash register at a co-op in Grand Marais, Rod is a Unitarian minister in sunny California, and John works the floor at The Home Depot in St. Louis Park. Every time I run into him he says the same thing: "If I'm ever on 'So You Want to be a Millionaire' you'll be my lifeline." OK.

What happened to Roy and Jim? I have no idea.