We threw our backpacks into the
trunk of the car, fully packed with gear, clothes, and food, and headed west
toward the Dakota border. We’d booked a walk-in site at Lac Qui Parle State
Park and were on our way to see if there were any interesting birds in the
vicinity.
What did we see along the way? Perhaps I ought to begin with the
family of sandhill cranes we saw standing in a row, in a field, at the crest of
a hill, just off the highway west of Waverly. Though they all looked roughly
the same from the window of a speeding car, the children were half the size of
the adults. For cute.
Next, I might mention the burritos at Rosita’s Hole-in-the
Wall restaurant on 4th Street in downtown Willmar. Fantastic! We ordered them to go,
but there was still a considerable wait, during which I saw Columbia score two
goals against El Salvador in a World Cup qualifier on the TV against the far
wall. Extraordinary.
Our campsite on the hill above Lac Qui Parle was amazing.
Though it’s a “walk-in” site, it’s only thirty feet down the hill from the
parking lot—you could probably roll
all your stuff down to it. But it’s a hundred yards or more from the main
campground, looking off down the hill, where you can see the lake in several
places through the trees.
Pelicans flew overhead in twos or twenties all afternoon. (More
than a thousand are nesting a mile or two upstream.) We hiked across fields and
hills toward the lake, heading off into the woods eventually. There were yellow
warblers and warbling vireos in the woods, and when we got to the road again we
saw a sign on the other side that said Cottonwood Tree.
Well, we’ve seen plenty of cottonwood trees in our day. But
something told us this would be different. So across the deserted highway we
went, and up the hill into the woods, then down another hill, where we soon
came upon a very big cottonwood tree.
It wasn’t all that tall, but its girth was remarkable. I suspect this is the
tree on state land near Watson that’s recorded on the DNR list
as the biggest cottonwood tree in Minnesota.
The afternoon lighting was superb and the grasses around the
campsite were a deep, rich green, due to the heavy rains. We’d set up the tent
before our cross-country jaunt, but it was a very windy afternoon I was happy
to see that it was still standing when we got back. The wind died down with the
waning sunlight and we made bold to put up the rain fly, which would probably have been
a serious mistake earlier in the afternoon.
We ate a cold dinner of cheese, crackers, grapes,
almonds, and salami, and sat reading in the lovely evening light.
As I was sitting in my little camp-chair, I saw two robust
sparrows in silhouette fly repeatedly into the grass nearby. Suspecting a nesting site, I got up to examine the spot more closely, only
to see an orchard oriole fly off. There were several, in fact, and later Hilary
got a good look at one of them, too.
As twilight descended we got a fire going The fireflies also began to emerge and we spent a
half-hour waiting for them to appear in greater force—dazzling us with fields
of bobbing pin-pricks of light—rather than a single burst here, another one
there, then nothing. They did.
Meanwhile Venus has appeared in the west, and I
made a lucky guess that the reddish star in the south was Antares, with the
rest of Scorpio soon to appear. (It did.)
Though the wind had died down it was still blowing. Nevertheless, pleasing child-like squeals
occasionally made themselves our way from the campground up on the crest of the
hill. Two young Asian men who (I suspect) had been fishing down by the dam
hiked in to another site across the field, set up their tent, and then drove
off again—either back to the dam or down into Montevideo to have a few beers.
The night air began to grow cool. Hilary decided to hit the
hay, and I poured a little water on the fire, though our jug was getting low
and I decided to wait a bit to see a few more stars come out as the glowing
embers spent themselves.
It was then that I saw a creature coming silently and
swiftly down the path in the dark. It looked like a robust cat in shape (which
is all I could see) but it didn’t have a tail. Other species flashed through my
mind, but I’ve seen lots of coyotes, fox, raccoons, ground squirrels, skunks,
and even martins and fishers in my day. No. It was like something I’d never
seen before. When it got right in front of me it suddenly realized I was standing
there in the dark and darted off into the thick grasses at the edge of the
campsite. It didn't have a tail.
In fact, I have seen bobcats several times before…in
California. And I once saw a lynx up at Agassiz Wildlife Refuge. This was much
smaller. Totally silent. Bulky, and no
more than 18 inches high.
Later in the night, I climbed out of the tent to take a
leak—the air had grown cold, morning was nigh (as the poets used to say) and the
breeze was now mellow. Looking off to the north I noticed some Northern Lights
low to the horizon, with a few tall streaks leaping from the solid band. Wow!
In the morning we wandered the backroads between Odessa and
Ortonville. In some places the grassy countryside had an ethereal, almost
African beauty. The north shores of Big Stone Wildlife Refuge was lined with rocky
exposures covered with oaks, larkspur, poison ivy, and even a few clumps of cactus. Among the birds we saw were yellow-headed blackbirds, green-back
herons, and a pair of western grebes.
3 comments:
what a gorgeous, gorgeous trip. i've never seen a bobcat, but i saw a cougar trotting across the Sawbill Trail early one morning. it definitely had a tail.
Cougar is cool. Very cool...but a little dangerous.
We had bobcats all over the place in New Mexico -- although shy, they were often sited. Unlike cougars, seemed relatively benign -- and love their eyebrows.
Your cousin
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